"Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when in electrical contact with a different type of metal and both metals are immersed in an electrolyte.  A common example is when two or more different sorts of metal come into contact in the presence of an electrolyte a galvanic couple is set up as different metals have different electrode potentials. The electrolyte provides a means for ion migration whereby metallic ions can move from the anode to the cathode. This leads to the anodic metal corroding more quickly than it otherwise would; the corrosion of the cathodic metal is retarded even to the point of stopping. The presence of electrolyte and a conducting path between the metals may cause corrosion where otherwise neither metal alone would have corroded."

The problem is of course with any boat, as even fibreglass boats have areas (such as the leg) that can be affected, and subsequently the manufacturers have anodes in place from the factory on inboard legs and outboard legs.  With a salt water trip in the very near future it was necessary for me to add a zinc anode to the hull of my boat to prevent such corrosion from occurring.  Laymen's terms, the anode corrodes rather than the aluminum boat!

Once again, no brain surgery on the install of this item.  The mistake alot of boat owners do when putting these anodes on is they put to small of one on, the bigger the better works best in this case.  With my Harbercraft I had a perfect spot on the stern to add the zinc, as they have special brackets already welded to the hull to fasten various accessories to. I took some time with Jeff at Captain's Corner in Salmon Arm to find just the right sized anode for my application.  Because I already had a bracket installed on my boat it was easy to order in the size the fit right over the entire bracket, thanks Jeff!  After I marked the size with a felt pen on the bracket I scribed the outline of the anode on the painted bracket surface.  Its important to have the anode touch or "ground" itself to the metal you are trying to protect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the outline was scribed it was easy to peel off the painted surface, leaving a nice clean area for the anode to ground to.  I then drilled the RIGHT sized holes (don't go making big ass holes for the screws, measure properly so you get a nice tight fit!) to put the stainless steel screws through and then painted the inside of the holes.  Once this was done I also sealed the edges of the scribed area where I peeled the paint off.  Harbercraft supplied me with some matching paint so I used that to paint over the open edge .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although I've read a few articles stating that you should use aluminum screws rather than stainless for attaching the anode, I was informed by the mechanic at Captain's Corner that the stainless would work fine, as the anode would be corroding rather than the screws, so stainless it was.  I put Loc Tite on the screws, along with a stainless washer and lock washer, can never be to careful! The end result of the install looked like I almost knew what I was doing!  The size was perfect and should provide more than enough protection for the amount of time I will be in the salt water. Do it right the first time, it'll save you alot of problems later!